
Rue Montorgueil
Where Paris does its shopping before it performs for anyone. Oysters, flowers, a first coffee standing up.
The Address Book
Not a checklist. Seventeen places worth slowing down for, kept in the order of the day.

Where Paris does its shopping before it performs for anyone. Oysters, flowers, a first coffee standing up.

Order the café crème, take the window seat, and watch Saint-Germain wake up.

Come early, before the terrace fills. Sit facing the boulevard and let Saint-Germain do the rest.

Walk the arcades slowly. One of those Paris courtyards that feels removed from the city around it.

Pull a green metal chair to the edge of the fountain. Sit facing the light. That's the whole instruction.

The old-world hot chocolate — thick as velvet. Come for the ritual, not the queue.

Buy the garden ticket. Roses, bronze, gravel paths and enough shade to stay longer than planned.

Even the staircase is a performance. Go for the gold and the grand foyer, whether or not there's a show.

Don't try to see it all. Choose one room, one painting, and let it be enough. The pyramid at dusk is the encore.

Creaking floors, crowded shelves, the Seine at the door. Buy the book you'll always associate with this trip.

The neighbourhood to wander without a map. Courtyards, galleries, small shops — turn whenever something looks interesting.

The most beautiful bridge in the city, and it knows it. Be there as the lamps come on and the gold turns real.

Yes, it's the tourist thing. Do it anyway at golden hour. Paris looks completely different from the water.

Not under it — across from it. Lie on the grass at Champ de Mars, or take the Trocadéro terrace for the whole silhouette.

Step off Faubourg Saint-Honoré and suddenly there's a garden. Stay for the service; go upstairs for the pool.

The address that turned into an adjective. Even if you only come for a drink at the bar — come.

End it small. A corner bar à vin, one good glass, nowhere else to be.