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The Eiffel Tower over the rooftops of Paris

The Address Book

Seventeen places
from the walk.

Not a checklist. Seventeen places worth slowing down for, kept in the order of the day.

Morning · 08–10
A quiet cobbled Paris street
01

Rue Montorgueil

Market street · 2e

Where Paris does its shopping before it performs for anyone. Oysters, flowers, a first coffee standing up.

An espresso and a gloved hand on a marble café table
02

Café de Flore

Café · Saint-Germain, 6e

Order the café crème, take the window seat, and watch Saint-Germain wake up.

Silk, pearls and gloves — a refined morning still life
03

Les Deux Magots

Café · Saint-Germain, 6e

Come early, before the terrace fills. Sit facing the boulevard and let Saint-Germain do the rest.

Midday · 11–14
Classical Parisian colonnade
04

Jardin du Palais-Royal

Garden & colonnade · 1er

Walk the arcades slowly. One of those Paris courtyards that feels removed from the city around it.

Green trees in a Paris park
05

Jardin des Tuileries

Garden · 1er

Pull a green metal chair to the edge of the fountain. Sit facing the light. That's the whole instruction.

A gilded old-Paris salon in warm light
06

Angelina

Salon de thé · Rue de Rivoli, 1er

The old-world hot chocolate — thick as velvet. Come for the ritual, not the queue.

Soft light on stone — a serene detail
07

Musée Rodin — the garden

Museum garden · 7e

Buy the garden ticket. Roses, bronze, gravel paths and enough shade to stay longer than planned.

Afternoon · 15–17
A grand marble staircase
08

Palais Garnier

Opera house · 9e

Even the staircase is a performance. Go for the gold and the grand foyer, whether or not there's a show.

The Louvre glass pyramid at dusk
09

Musée du Louvre

Museum · 1er

Don't try to see it all. Choose one room, one painting, and let it be enough. The pyramid at dusk is the encore.

A woman by the Seine at dusk
10

Shakespeare and Company

Bookshop · 5e

Creaking floors, crowded shelves, the Seine at the door. Buy the book you'll always associate with this trip.

A woman on a Paris balcony above the rooftops
11

Le Marais

Quarter · 3e / 4e

The neighbourhood to wander without a map. Courtyards, galleries, small shops — turn whenever something looks interesting.

Golden hour · 18–20
Pont Alexandre III
12

Pont Alexandre III

Bridge · 8e / 7e

The most beautiful bridge in the city, and it knows it. Be there as the lamps come on and the gold turns real.

The Seine at sunset
13

The Seine, from the water

Bateau · along the river

Yes, it's the tourist thing. Do it anyway at golden hour. Paris looks completely different from the water.

The Eiffel Tower from afar
14

Champ de Mars & Trocadéro

The Tower, from afar · 7e / 16e

Not under it — across from it. Lie on the grass at Champ de Mars, or take the Trocadéro terrace for the whole silhouette.

To stay
A quiet-luxury interior detail
15

Le Bristol Paris

Hôtel · Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 8e

Step off Faubourg Saint-Honoré and suddenly there's a garden. Stay for the service; go upstairs for the pool.

A gilded Paris salon
16

Ritz Paris

Hôtel · Place Vendôme, 1er

The address that turned into an adjective. Even if you only come for a drink at the bar — come.

After dark · 21+
Amber glass and pearls by candlelight
17

Wherever the rain finds you

A small bar à vin · somewhere on the Right Bank

End it small. A corner bar à vin, one good glass, nowhere else to be.

Seventeen reasons not to rush Paris.

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Paris — The Address Book
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